Kanchipuram

Kanchipuram in Tamilnadu is the city of temples. The temple town is the district headquarters and was the historical capital of the Pallavas during the 7th -9th Centuries and the entire city is filled with temples dating from the 8th -17th centuries. The Pallava rulers were one of the most powerful rulers of their times and their time is marked as one of the most glorious empires in world history. They laid the foundation to the classical Dravidian Architecture and many of the fabulous sculptures and temples have survived to this day.



These temples are enchanting and one can spend hours going back into history imagining the splendid times of these periods. The tall majestic carved towers, the wonderful architecture and the intricate stone carvings are entrancing. Some of the stories carved on these temples are very significant in history and some express a lot about the spirituality of the civilizations during those periods. The Pallavas were famous for the rock cut and structural temples at Mahabalipuram and Kanchipuram respectively. The region has been ruled successively by Cholas and the Vijayanagar empires.



Kanchi as it is fondly known is a pilgrim centre and houses some of the best architectural monuments of South India. Some of the important temples are the Kailasanatha temple, the Ekambareshwar temple, the Kamakshi temple and the Varadaraja temple. There are several smaller temples scattered all over the city.



The Ekambareshwar temple is very vast covering an area of about 40 acres ( according to a local)and is characterised by long corridors, towering gopurams and many mantapams. The Pallavas, Cholas and the Vijayanagar empires have all contributed to this temple. The main entrance tower or the Raja Gopuram is said to have been built by the Vijayanagar king and is about 172 feet in height. It is one of the tallest temple towers of South India. The presiding deity in this temple is Ekambareshwar (Shiva) in the sanctum sanctorum or ‘garba griha’. Just before the sanctum is a hallway with some thousand intricately carved pillars. The inner walls of the temple are dotted by hundreds of Shiva lingams. The temple also houses an ancient mango tree.



The Kailasnatha temple is one of the finest structural pieces of architecture of the Pallavas. The entire temple complex is built with sandstone. The outer and inner walls have some splendid carvings. Lions, elephants and snakes are predominant in the sculptures. A massive lingam is housed within the sanctum sanctorum. There is a certain energy in this temple and the experience is amazing.



The Kamakshi temple covers an area of about 5 acres. The area houses a temple tank and many pillared hallways. The temple tank has plenty of fish and one can feed them with puffed rice for a small amount. Children enjoy feeding the fish and just watching the fish in the tank. At the entrance of one of the towers, are the temple elephants blessing every passer by for a coconut piece or a small coin. The elephants are very elaborately dressed and painted. It is amazing to just stand and watch these elephants. After passing through a series of halls one enters the sanctum sanctorum that houses the Kamakshi deity in a seated form. Surrounding the main shrine are several smaller shrines.



Hawkers and vendors dot the entrance to al the temples displaying and selling flowers, a variety of articles used for pujas and also boiled groundnuts, peas and salted raw mangoes.The town is also famous for its exquisite silk sarees. One can see many stores lined up and displaying some of the most colourful silks o the main road of this town. Walking on the streets of Kanchi , talking to the local people and understanding some local issues is a great learning experience. The streets of Kanchi are dotted with many shops like the bicycle hire shops, watch repair shops, hair saloons, silk yarns dyeing and drying units.



It is a good experience to watch the small city break into life in the early hours of the morning and how it kind of never completely sleeps for one can continuously watch and hear bullock carts, people walking and also waiting for buses. Some small shops open and wait all day for customers and it is interesting to understand how they make a living? What do they actually sell? Who buys them?



There are many good hotels in Kanchipuram and restaurants. The food is excellent south Indian cuisine. The variety of dosas and masala dosas, idlis, medhu vadas, idiappams, variety of chutneys, and other traditional sweets are not to miss. The Saravana Bhavan is a not to miss restaurant! Kanchipuram is at a distance of about 235 kms from Bangalore. The best route is via Hosur-Krishnagiri- Vellore –Kanchipuram which is pretty smooth.

Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary

48 Kms from the temple town of Kanchipuram is Vedanthangal, the oldest bird Sanctuary in India. It is spread across a vast area of about 30 hectares which is basically a tank with numerous small islands that are covered with green scrub and thorny vegetation. Come winter and it is a paradise for birdwatchers. The entire region is dotted with thousands of birds most of which are migratory and some resident species. Painted storks, Egrets, Pond herons, Grey herons, Cormorants, Darters, Spoon Bills, Pelicans, Ibis, Terns, Moorhens, Pintails and many more are found in large numbers spread across the water body.



At the periphery of the sanctuary there is a well laid semi circular path with cobblestones for visitors to walk around the sanctuary. As one nears the sanctuary a loud whirr welcomes visitors into a haven of these avian creatures. Watching these winged visitors of all sizes, shapes and a variety of colours is sheer delight. While some are flying all over, some display their plumage, some dive in and out of water emerging victorious with a fish in their beak, and some are busy building their nests. A few nestle all along the undergrowth and the bushes beside the water, a few can be seen feeding the young ones and few others gently drifting across. On a single tree it is common to find more than three varieties of birds nesting happily.



The birds’ conversations seem never ending for their chatter never ceases. Some leap from tree to tree communicating something very important and some are perched on tall branches relishing their prized catch. Fishes of different sizes, small snakes, and a variety of other aquatic fauna seem to be the meal enjoyed by them. Here and there one can find some winged visitors in solitude. They are roosting on tall branches or gently gliding along the surface of the water. A watchtower stands tall along the walking path from where the view of the sanctuary is breathtaking. It provides a panoramic view of the entire region of numerous islands that are dotted with the feathered angels. The sun plays havoc with a riot of colors as it sets and the ripples in the water reflect the colours leaving one spellbound. The myriad bird calls of the evening are mesmerizing too.



A pair of good binoculars, a field guide to identify birds will be very helpful. The village communities around Vedanthangal have played a great role in conserving this place. ‘Vedanthangal’ in Tamil language means ‘place of the hunter’ and there is a legend that this was the most preferred hunting ground of the landlords hundreds of years ago.



Vedanthangal is about 80 kms from Chennai and is a must see place of the region! The best time is from October –February. There is a forest rest house at Vedanthangal that will need prior booking. The drive to the sanctuary through rural Tamil Nadu is enjoyable. The green paddy fields, the rustic charm of the villages, the local food of the small town hotels can be a great experience. Kanchipuram and Chennai are the nearest options for accommodation.

Muthathi

If its time to head out for a tryst with Mother Nature to calm the mind, body and soul, the perfect place close to Bangalore is Muthathi. The winding road which runs along the lush green hills of the Cauvery Wildlife Sanctuary are picture perfect and the River Cauvery meanders through the hills flowing graciously through the course of these hills. It is pretty shallow at places and is excellent to just dip into the water and feel the running water. Just along the road as one enters the Muthathi region, the river runs parallel to the road and there are placards every where warning about whirlpools but t is easy to find a shallow safe place to spend the day.



The place is a haven for birds and wildlife. The grizzled giant squirrel is found here and if lucky one gets to spot it. Birds that are very common here are Wagtails, Red Whiskered Bulbuls, White breasted Kingfishers, Cattle egret, Pond Heron, Swifts, Rose Ringed Parakeets, Kites, Mynas and many more. Locals often spot Jackals here. The deciduous trees along the banks of the river are gorgeous. One can loiter around an entire day by the river watching birds, the trees, the flowing water, the floating leaves and twigs. The place is not very crowded most days except on festival days where the Hanuman temple in the Muthathi region has great village festivities.



The other places around here are the Sangama, the confluence of River Cauvery and Arkavathi and Mekedatu. The Bhimeshwari fishing camp is close by too. The forest department has a camping site at Muthathi and requires prior booking. Trekking in the forest area can be a great experience.



To reach here, from Kanakapura one has to drive to Sathnur and at Sathnur take a left to reach Muthathi. It is advisable to carry plenty of water and food as there are no restaurants or shops.

Kanva Dam

Not very far from the hustle bustle of the city of Bangalore is this serene place where there is a dam built in 1946 across the River Kanva, a tributary of the Cauvery. The dam is about 1.5 kms long. According to a legend the River gets its name from Sage Kanva who is believed to have lived in the region during the time of Ramayana. The water body is pretty large with fishermen fishing in their coracles. The water levels are good after the rains and the surface of the vast expanse of water is dazzling.



Coracle rides are available for a small amount. It is great fun to just splash around in the shallow regions of the water. The shores are wonderful for camping. It is a great place for bird watching on the green hills surrounding the water body. Trekking around the hills is worthwhile too. Just lazing on the shore and watching the clouds can be an amazing experience. A Picnic umbrella will come handy on sunny days.



It is near Ramanagaram, off Mysore road and about 65 kms from Bangalore. Enquiring with local villagers is very helpful and informative. There are no shops or restaurants close by, it is advisable to carry food and water and also ensure no trash is left behind.

Muthyalamaduvu (Pearl Valley)

Pearl valley is about 45 kms from Bangalore and is known as Muthyalamaduvu. A stream cascades down through rocky terrains from a height of about 90m into a valley forming a pond in a very rocky region and the water drops on the rock surface give the appearance of scattered pearls giving it the name Pearl valley. ‘Muthu’ means pearl and ‘Maduvu’ meaning valley in Kannada. At the entrance to the valley is a flight of rock cut steps about 280 or so leading all the way to the waterfalls. The Water falls however is usually crowded with boys splashing around in the pool at the bottom and lots of monkeys trying to get their hands at the food bags, but not to despair as the serene green ambience all around the region is splendid and is great for trekking and it is easy to find a pretty shelter under the hilly vegetation for a perfect picnic. There is a small Shiva temple facing the waterfalls too.



The region is at the periphery of the Bannerghatta National Park and is dotted with lots of streams and a couple of waterfalls after the rains. Colourful butterflies, birds, lots of insects, a variety of lizards on the rocky patches, frogs during the monsoon and the distant blue hills in the horizon make this place a wonderful one day picnic spot. The jungle crows in a region can create a real racket.



Trekking along the hilly terrain is quite challenging at some places as it is very steep.There is a KSTDC restaurant for some basic food and water needs but preferable to carry food and lots of water. The easiest route would be Bangalore- Bannerghatta National Park –Anekal- Pearl Valley.

Chikkamagalur

Chikkamagalur is a land of coffee, cardamom, pepper, vanilla and arecanut plantations in the midst of the lofty ranges of the Western Ghats. It is a perfect blend of nature and wildlife with the Bhadra and Vedavathi rivers and plenty of streams. The region is well known for its wide variety of flora and fauna and is a treat to nature lovers. There are plenty of homestays, hotels and resorts. There is also a forest guest house at the Bhadra Tiger Reserve and the Wildlife sanctuary which requires prior booking. There are lots of places to see in and around Chikkamagalur like the Mullainagiri peak, the Baba Budan Giri Hills, Kudremukh, Kalasa, Horanadu and many more. But when one is looking for a weekend away from all the Urban turmoil and just want to relax, reflect and unwind, finding a good homestay, offering some good local traditional food and a basic accommodation near the river is the perfect treat.



Trekking through the hills covered with coffee plantations can be quite an experience. The forest trees and the many streams that flow through the region present many scenic surprises. The white coffee blossoms with their breathtaking fragrance are such a wonderful treat for trekkers. A morning nature trail in and around any home stay vicinity in the region will be very rewarding as it is a paradise for birds. Red whiskered bulbuls, Bee Eaters, Flycatchers, Indian rollers, Magpie robins, Kingfishers, Jungle fowl, Coucal or Crow Pheasant, Parakeets, Drongos can be seen in large numbers. The Malabar Whistling Thrush can be heard very often and if lucky one can often spot them. In addition it is a retreat for reptiles, amphibians and insects. Giant squirrels can be seen on the higher branches of the forest canopy jumping from tree to tree.




Trekking up to Mullaiyanagiri peak, the tallest peak of the Western Ghats is a great experience. The wind speeds will seem to push as one ascends the peak. The view from above is spectacular. There are well laid stone steps leading to the peak from the bottom of the hill.





Kayaking on the river Bhadra can be a marvelous experience. For first timers on a kayak it can be great fun learning to move the human powered boat as they will find themselves going around in circles! Moving through the waters with forest patches on either side, watching the water birds such as Herons, Cormorants, Darters and other water birds catch their prey or just drying their plumage is a sight that will be cherished for a long time.

The most amazing thing can be a drive through the coffee plantation late in the evening and as dusk sets in, it will seem like one is in paradise! Series of lights start flickering and the entire forest seems to glow with fireflies. This can be the most fabulous experience one can ever have.




Last but not the least, just lazing in the backyard of the homestay on a swing or hammock or trying to climb a tree full of wild ants or watching the scenery from a tree house can be an ideal holiday with family and friends. Talking to people working in the plantations, understanding the tremendous amount of work that goes behind that delicious cup we relish every morning afternoon and whenever is a great learning experience. Some homestays also grow a lot of coffee, so walking through the various processes and learning about the mechanized processes can be very rewarding.


Not to miss, the local traditional food of Malnad style idlies called Kadubus with yummy coconut chutney, akkirotti with a spicy chutney and many more traditional goodies. A couple of great homestays to mention are Greendale and Riverwoods. One visit to Chikkamagalur and it will beckon you to come again and again to offer many more surprises every time.

The best route is Bangalore-Nelamangala- Hassan –Chikkamagalur and the total distance is about 250 kms
Travel time is about 4 and half hours
Best time would be through out the year, monsoons will be good fun with the leeches and all streams flowing at their best.

Bilikal Rangaswamy Betta

Bilikal Rangaswamy betta is one of the hills close to Bangalore and a great place for rock climbers. It is located close to Kanakpura (about 50 kms from Bangalore) and is a very pretty place lush with greenery. The hill can be reached by two different routes. One is through a jeep track via Kanakapura and another through Harohalli and Dodda Maralawadi which is good for trekkers. For motorists, a short distance after the Kanakapura bus stop at a small circle much before the one which goes to Mekedatu, a left turn leads to the jeep track that goes all the way to the top of the hill. Enquiring with local people will help reach the top. (Often while enquiring, people mistake it for the Biligiri Rangaswamy temple at BR Hills), but this is Bilikal Rangaswamy which gets its name from the white colour granite rocks of the hill. ‘Bilikal’ means ‘white stone’ in Kannada.



The region is completely forested as one drives along the jeep track. The vegetation is mostly dry deciduous and shrub. The hill is part of the Eastern Ghats and the view from the top is very scenic as one can see lots of other hills around. Savandurga hill is also visible according to localites when the sky is clear. It is elephant territory and one can see the destruction of crops caused by elephants along the track and local people will have lots of stories to narrate as to how they drove the elephants away at night.



The region also has lots of birds like Drongos, Kites, Sunbirds, Bee eaters and many more. The hill top has a cave temple and the priest’s house. It is a perfect weekend getaway from Bangalore. It’s important to carry lots of water and food, and ensuring no plastic and trash is left behind.

Himavad Gopalaswamy Betta

Gopalaswamy Betta popularly known as Himavad Gopalaswamy Betta is a very beautiful hill located in the Chamarajnagar area of the Bandipur National Park. It is about 220 kms from Bangalore and about 90 kms from Mysore. It is one of the roads less traveled and is a great place for a daylong trek or nature trail. It is the highest peak of the Bandipur region often covered with clouds. The Gopalaswamy temple dates back to the 13th century and was built by the Cholas and later maintained by the Wodeyars of Mysore. Legend adds that sage Agasthya performed rigorous penance in this region and the place was also known as Hamsatheertha.



The area has more than 70 lakes and many dot the landscape as one climbs the hill through the good motorable road. The sanctum sanctorum or ‘Garba Griha’ has an idol of Krishna playing the flute with Rukmini and Sathyabhama on either side. The carvings of a tree canopy and cows, cowherd and many of Krishna’s friends are very well depicted too. The tree canopy of the idol is always covered in mist and also the roof of the ‘garba griha’ remains misty which gives its name ‘Himavad’ where ‘Hima’ means mist in Kannada.



The shola grasslands surrounding the temple are very striking and one can trek through them to reach the core regions of the Bandipur area on routes suggested by the forest department. It is a treasure trove for wild flora and fauna. The variety of colourful birds visible to the naked eyes is really amazing and is a bird watcher’s delight. Gaur, wild boars, wild dogs and elephants too are said to be very common. It is breathtaking as one looks at the horizon in all directions and colourful wild flowers dot the grassy background on the ground where our feet tread. The trees along the road are covered with lichens and beautiful orchids that are a wonder to botanists. Jungle fowls, Kingfishers, Minivets, Woodpeckers, Drongos, Cuckoos make the place a paradise.



The forest department monitors the littering in the place and strictly prohibits plastic, liquor and smoking. There are no shops selling anything which is such a blessing and the area is closed after 6.00 pm. This has helped preserve the sanctity of the place and a visit to this place is most rewarding during the months of October –December. The route from Mysore via Gundlupet on the Ooty highway is fairly good but for a small bad stretch near Gundlupet. One has to carry water and food and make sure nothing is left behind.

Mandagadde, A hidden bird sanctuary near Shimoga

Nestled on the banks of the Tunga, about 30 kms from Thirthahalli near shimoga is this small village with paddy fields, arecanut and coconut plantations that have pepper and vanilla creepers covering their trunks. The village is very close to the Shetty halli forest, the Sakrebyle elephant camp and the Mandgadde bird Santuary It is a perfect weekend travel plan to be away from the noisy, stressful city.
The drive to Mandagadde is very pleasant and pretty as one passes through the coffee plantations, distant Blue Mountains, plenty of village tanks, streams and rivers. One also encounters canals alive with children swimming, women washing and some even trying to catch a fish or two. The scenic territory beckons you stop admire and appreciate the beauty as one crosses the many towns and villages. Weekends are filled with bustling village fairs all along the village roads. Variety of flowers, fruits, vegetables, bangles, puffed rice, jaggery and fish are a common sight at the fairs. It also awakens one to the land that is so rich in its history and heritage. Temples dot the map as one drives past these winding roads and each one of them is an interesting place to visit.



The Shetty halli wildlife sanctuary close to Mandagadde has forests ranging from dry deciduous to semi evergreen and is home to a good variety of flora and fauna. As one drives by or even treks the enchanting bird calls in the early hours of the morning and evening are incredible. Some of the common birds are the Parakeets, Bulbuls, Munias, Kingfishers, Swallows, Flycatchers, Drongos, Doves and Pigeons. A Tiger and lion safari has been added to this sanctuary near Tyavarekoppa and the safari is organized and open between 2.00 -5.00 pm. The Sakkarebyle Elephant camp is a elephant training camp where elephants get trained under mahouts and is close to the Shetty halli sanctuary. This is a real treat for children and adults. The area also has Teak and Acacia plantations.The Gajanur dam across the Tunga river is located close to Mandagadde and the dam gets its name from the water that resembles a sheet of glass and so gajanur. (Gaju-glass in Kannada, uuru –town).



As the Tunga flows quietly along Mandagadde, the chirping of the winged visitors perched on the trees create an orchestra that is incredible. An early morning or evening trek along the Tunga here is very rewarding as one gets to see the Darters, Egrets and the little cormorant in great numbers. These winged visitors are in cluster on the trees that form a small island with Tunga flowing around them. There is also a watch tower nearby where one can spend hours just observing the bird life, their nesting habits, their young ones and their ways of catching prey. The local villagers use motor boats to get across to the villages across the Tunga. One way ride costs about Rs.5/- and one can even take longer boat rides to get a closer glimpse at the feathered splendor. Along the banks of this stretch of the Tunga is a small beach at Mandagadde . It’s a perfect place for an evening wander or an evening picnic and for kids to play in the sand.



A major attraction close to Mandagadde is the world famous Jog falls where the Sharavathi dives deep into a gorge in Sagar Taluk and is about 100 kms from Manadagadde. Ambutheertha, the place where Sharavathi takes its origin is also close by near Thirthahalli. Agumbe which is about 60 kms from Mandagadde is at an altitude of 826 m above mean sea level and it is from here that one can experience the magnificent, entrancing sunset. The setting sun sets the sky into a flame of vibrant colours and is reflected by the Arabian Sea. This leaves one spell bound.
Places to stay: Home stays ( Inchara Home stay), Budget hotels
Route: Bangalore-Hassan-Balehonnur-Thirthahalli-Mandagadde-Shimoga
Best Time: June- January