Monday, January 25, 2010

Thonnur Tank



Yet another sunday and you want to drive away from all the city's noise to spend a few hours to refresh yourself, then Thonnur tank is a good getaway. Pack some food and water, a mat, a book, a pair of good binoculars and off you drive on Mysore road. Just two kilometres after Mandya is a sign board indicating a right turn to Pandavapura. Take the right turn and Pandavapura is just about 21 kms from the highway. On reaching Pandavapura ask the local people for directions to Thonnur kere and they will be more than willing to help you.



Thonnur tank is about 1000 years old according to locals. It is said to have been planned and built under the leadership of Saint Sri Ramanujacharya. The region is also said to have been under the Adil Shahs of Bijapur and then Tipu Sultan. The tank has been created by building a bund between two hills.The original tank bund is said to have been reinforced during the times of Tipu Sultan. The water from the Yadavanadi River and the many streams that run down the hills collect to form this huge tank that supplies water to the surrounding paddy and sugarcane fields.



The tank bund is about 145 kms long and the height of the bund is about 230 mts.There are four temples in and around the vicinity. The temples are the Venkataramana, Narayana, Venugopala, Yoga Narasimha and Saint Ramanujacharya temples. There is also an old sluice gate that controls the amount of water to the fields. At one point as one climbs the winding uphill road there is a small water fall where water gushes down and appears pretty forceful. The hills have many small caves that are referred to as Tipus' caves.



The view of the vast expanse of water visible from the bund is breathtaking. There are a few old stone steps that lead to the water and a small watch tower that appears recent. Many seem to enjoy a swim here and few are seen bathing and offering prayers. The hills are very rocky and can be fun to climb and explore. The rock formations are very interesting and one such formation appears like a turtle climbing up a hill. Driving around the hills through the many farms growing vegetables, sugarcane, paddy and ragi and exploring the various narrow muddy roads that reach the lake is a good experience to find a little shade to settle down.



The place has lots of areas around the lake to settle down on a mat to be with the surroundings. Kingfishers, Egrets, Drongos,Pied Wagtails, Small green Bee eaters and many more are such a treat. The Water birds such as Coots, cormorants, Darters and many more will keep you busy admiring with all their swimming,preying and calling skills. As the sun begins to set, it brings many more feathered friends but it will also be time to head back to the city. A good place for bird watchers, rock climbers and if you just like to be away from the city.

Sunday, July 12, 2009

Chunchunkatte Falls



The roaring waters of Cauvery at Chunchunkatte can be deafening, but it’s amazing to see the power and beauty of this river here. It is one of the most dramatic falls, with the misty spray of the water drops all over the surrounding that is energizing. The rocky landscape adds to the splendor as water passes through the cracks and crevices and forms milky white cascades across the breadth of the flowing river. The water falls is pretty wide and there is a power generating station that was installed some years back. Locals share the place was greener before the power generation plant was installed.



Chunchunkatte gets its name from a legend in which a tribal couple chuncha and chunchi helped Lord Ram and Sita when in exile. Local villagers have lots of interesting stories to narrate. On the banks of the river is a very old Kodanda Rama Temple. The thunderous noise of the water falls is heard from a distance as one drives close to this place. But it is interesting to note that the noise is not heard inside the temple and locals have fascinating tales to share as to why the noise is not heard inside the temple. Another interesting feature is that the idol of Sita is to the right of Lord Rama unlike in most Lord Rama temples where Sita is to the left. There are two hanuman temples too one in the main temple and the other near the river.



The path to the falls from the temple is well maintained and a bridge helps reach the falls. Another legend told by the locals is about how Lord Ram’s brother Lakshman, shot an arrow in a secluded place between the tall rocks near the water falls to create a bathing area for Sita. Climbing the tall rocks is challenging and one finds a small pond of water what the locals refer to as where Sita bathed while in exile here. The area around is very rocky and a haven for aquatic birds. Many Darters, egrets, spot billed ducks, small blue kingfishers, Brahminy Kites and many other birds can be spotted.



The surrounding areas of the temple are green with plenty of old trees providing shade for all the communities that come here for various festivities. The temple area also houses a big chariot. The temple celebrates the chariot festival (Brahma Ratotsava) during the Makarashankranthi day when the area is thronged by hundreds of devotees.



To reach here one has to drive to Mysore and head towards K R Nagar. From K R Nagar the water falls is about 10 Kilometres. Enquiring with locals at K R Nagar is helpful. The area has no restaurants and eateries which have probably helped keep the place a little clean. Spending a day here is surely very rewarding away from the city’s chaos.

Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Marconahalli Dam



Away from the tiring hustle- bustle of the city about 90 kms from Bangalore, built across the River Simsha is the very old Marconahalli Dam. The picturesque and tranquil ambience is a perfect getaway to rejuvenate. It’s hard to believe there’s such a relaxing place so close to Bangalore but yet unknown to many in urban Bengaluru fortunately.



Simsha River, a tributary of River Cauvery takes its birth at the Devarayanadurga hills in Tumkur District and flows towards the Southern District of Mandya. Marconahalli dam is built across the Simsha in Kunigal Taluk of Tumkur District. It is at the confluence of Hemavathi, another Tributary of Cauvery and Simsha Rivers. The dam is said to be a unique water resource management project as the reservoir has automatic siphon systems which help spill excess water through the sluice gates and is considered to be a very efficient automatic flood control system that requires no manual operations. The waters of the reservoir supply water to the agricultural and farming areas around Kunigal, Mandya, Maddur etc. This reservoir has been the life-saving water source for irrigating nearly 6,000 hectares of land spread over villages around Kunigal according to local villagers. The dam was built in 1930 during the reign of Mysore Maharaja Sri Krishnaraja Wadiyar IV and its unique automatic siphon system was designed by Sir M Vishveshwaraiah. The dam has also prevented the submergence of the well Known Yediyur Siddalingeshwara Temple during the monsoons according to the local people.



A fairly well maintained park with a few trees leads to the flight of steps to reach the top of the dam. On reaching the top the view of the vast expanse of water with some greenery around is breath taking and the cool breeze very rewarding. Muniyappa who has been in charge of the dam for nearly 28 years now, explains with great zeal about the history of the dam and the details of the siphon system as he shows one the minute details of the siphon wells and the gates. Understanding how the siphon system works can be a great learning experience to kids. The motor that operates the sliding gates is also about 70 years old and Muniyappa feels proud that it has never gone for repair even once. The entire structure has been built with sandstone and the display boards give all details of the dam.



The road beyond the dam leads to a village called Nagamangala and as it curves past the reservoir, the waters are surrounded by coconut and Banana plantations and small patches of bamboo. It is easy to find a shady patch along the banks of the river water and settle down. The still waters are a haven for water birds. Pond Herons, Common Egrets, Large Cormorants, white breasted Kingfishers, Common coots, Purple Moorhens, Darters drying their wings are found in good numbers. In addition Drongos, Brahmini Kites, Pied Wagtails, Magpie Robins, Flycatchers, Flower Peckers and many more can be spotted. According to the locals a variety of fishes are found in the waters and provides a good livelihood to fisher folk.



The fronds of the coconut trees provide the perfect shade for an afternoon packed lunch and a nap. Conversations with local people are helpful in understanding the farming issues and the importance of lakes for irrigation. Almost all the locals will mention the big lake built by the late visionary Magadi Kempegowda and how Kunigal is dependent on the lake for its water needs.



The route to this place from Bengaluru is the NH4 to Nelamangala and at Nelamanagala one has to take a left turn on to the Mangalore highway towards Kunigal. Kunigal is about 44 Kms from Nelamanagala. A few kms past Kunigal on the same highway enroute to Yediyur on the left side is a sign board indicating the road to the Marconahalli Dam. There are lots of other places nearby such as the Huliyur Durga State forest, the Deepambudhi Lake, Kunigal Lake and the Stud farm at Kunigal if one has the time. It is best to carry lots of water and food as there are no good restaurants nearby.

Friday, December 5, 2008

Kanchipuram



Kanchipuram in Tamilnadu is the city of temples. The temple town is the district headquarters and was the historical capital of the Pallavas during the 7th -9th Centuries and the entire city is filled with temples dating from the 8th -17th centuries. The Pallava rulers were one of the most powerful rulers of their times and their time is marked as one of the most glorious empires in world history. They laid the foundation to the classical Dravidian Architecture and many of the fabulous sculptures and temples have survived to this day.



These temples are enchanting and one can spend hours going back into history imagining the splendid times of these periods. The tall majestic carved towers, the wonderful architecture and the intricate stone carvings are entrancing. Some of the stories carved on these temples are very significant in history and some express a lot about the spirituality of the civilizations during those periods. The Pallavas were famous for the rock cut and structural temples at Mahabalipuram and Kanchipuram respectively. The region has been ruled successively by Cholas and the Vijayanagar empires.



Kanchi as it is fondly known is a pilgrim centre and houses some of the best architectural monuments of South India. Some of the important temples are the Kailasanatha temple, the Ekambareshwar temple, the Kamakshi temple and the Varadaraja temple. There are several smaller temples scattered all over the city.



The Ekambareshwar temple is very vast covering an area of about 40 acres ( according to a local)and is characterised by long corridors, towering gopurams and many mantapams. The Pallavas, Cholas and the Vijayanagar empires have all contributed to this temple. The main entrance tower or the Raja Gopuram is said to have been built by the Vijayanagar king and is about 172 feet in height. It is one of the tallest temple towers of South India. The presiding deity in this temple is Ekambareshwar (Shiva) in the sanctum sanctorum or ‘garba griha’. Just before the sanctum is a hallway with some thousand intricately carved pillars. The inner walls of the temple are dotted by hundreds of Shiva lingams. The temple also houses an ancient mango tree.



The Kailasnatha temple is one of the finest structural pieces of architecture of the Pallavas. The entire temple complex is built with sandstone. The outer and inner walls have some splendid carvings. Lions, elephants and snakes are predominant in the sculptures. A massive lingam is housed within the sanctum sanctorum. There is a certain energy in this temple and the experience is amazing.



The Kamakshi temple covers an area of about 5 acres. The area houses a temple tank and many pillared hallways. The temple tank has plenty of fish and one can feed them with puffed rice for a small amount. Children enjoy feeding the fish and just watching the fish in the tank. At the entrance of one of the towers, are the temple elephants blessing every passer by for a coconut piece or a small coin. The elephants are very elaborately dressed and painted. It is amazing to just stand and watch these elephants. After passing through a series of halls one enters the sanctum sanctorum that houses the Kamakshi deity in a seated form. Surrounding the main shrine are several smaller shrines.



Hawkers and vendors dot the entrance to al the temples displaying and selling flowers, a variety of articles used for pujas and also boiled groundnuts, peas and salted raw mangoes.The town is also famous for its exquisite silk sarees. One can see many stores lined up and displaying some of the most colourful silks o the main road of this town. Walking on the streets of Kanchi , talking to the local people and understanding some local issues is a great learning experience. The streets of Kanchi are dotted with many shops like the bicycle hire shops, watch repair shops, hair saloons, silk yarns dyeing and drying units.



It is a good experience to watch the small city break into life in the early hours of the morning and how it kind of never completely sleeps for one can continuously watch and hear bullock carts, people walking and also waiting for buses. Some small shops open and wait all day for customers and it is interesting to understand how they make a living? What do they actually sell? Who buys them?



There are many good hotels in Kanchipuram and restaurants. The food is excellent south Indian cuisine. The variety of dosas and masala dosas, idlis, medhu vadas, idiappams, variety of chutneys, and other traditional sweets are not to miss. The Saravana Bhavan is a not to miss restaurant! Kanchipuram is at a distance of about 235 kms from Bangalore. The best route is via Hosur-Krishnagiri- Vellore –Kanchipuram which is pretty smooth.

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary



48 Kms from the temple town of Kanchipuram is Vedanthangal, the oldest bird Sanctuary in India. It is spread across a vast area of about 30 hectares which is basically a tank with numerous small islands that are covered with green scrub and thorny vegetation. Come winter and it is a paradise for birdwatchers. The entire region is dotted with thousands of birds most of which are migratory and some resident species. Painted storks, Egrets, Pond herons, Grey herons, Cormorants, Darters, Spoon Bills, Pelicans, Ibis, Terns, Moorhens, Pintails and many more are found in large numbers spread across the water body.



At the periphery of the sanctuary there is a well laid semi circular path with cobblestones for visitors to walk around the sanctuary. As one nears the sanctuary a loud whirr welcomes visitors into a haven of these avian creatures. Watching these winged visitors of all sizes, shapes and a variety of colours is sheer delight. While some are flying all over, some display their plumage, some dive in and out of water emerging victorious with a fish in their beak, and some are busy building their nests. A few nestle all along the undergrowth and the bushes beside the water, a few can be seen feeding the young ones and few others gently drifting across. On a single tree it is common to find more than three varieties of birds nesting happily.



The birds’ conversations seem never ending for their chatter never ceases. Some leap from tree to tree communicating something very important and some are perched on tall branches relishing their prized catch. Fishes of different sizes, small snakes, and a variety of other aquatic fauna seem to be the meal enjoyed by them. Here and there one can find some winged visitors in solitude. They are roosting on tall branches or gently gliding along the surface of the water. A watchtower stands tall along the walking path from where the view of the sanctuary is breathtaking. It provides a panoramic view of the entire region of numerous islands that are dotted with the feathered angels. The sun plays havoc with a riot of colors as it sets and the ripples in the water reflect the colours leaving one spellbound. The myriad bird calls of the evening are mesmerizing too.



A pair of good binoculars, a field guide to identify birds will be very helpful. The village communities around Vedanthangal have played a great role in conserving this place. ‘Vedanthangal’ in Tamil language means ‘place of the hunter’ and there is a legend that this was the most preferred hunting ground of the landlords hundreds of years ago.



Vedanthangal is about 80 kms from Chennai and is a must see place of the region! The best time is from October –February. There is a forest rest house at Vedanthangal that will need prior booking. The drive to the sanctuary through rural Tamil Nadu is enjoyable. The green paddy fields, the rustic charm of the villages, the local food of the small town hotels can be a great experience. Kanchipuram and Chennai are the nearest options for accommodation.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Muthathi



If its time to head out for a tryst with Mother Nature to calm the mind, body and soul, the perfect place close to Bangalore is Muthathi. The winding road which runs along the lush green hills of the Cauvery Wildlife Sanctuary are picture perfect and the River Cauvery meanders through the hills flowing graciously through the course of these hills. It is pretty shallow at places and is excellent to just dip into the water and feel the running water. Just along the road as one enters the Muthathi region, the river runs parallel to the road and there are placards every where warning about whirlpools but t is easy to find a shallow safe place to spend the day.



The place is a haven for birds and wildlife. The grizzled giant squirrel is found here and if lucky one gets to spot it. Birds that are very common here are Wagtails, Red Whiskered Bulbuls, White breasted Kingfishers, Cattle egret, Pond Heron, Swifts, Rose Ringed Parakeets, Kites, Mynas and many more. Locals often spot Jackals here. The deciduous trees along the banks of the river are gorgeous. One can loiter around an entire day by the river watching birds, the trees, the flowing water, the floating leaves and twigs. The place is not very crowded most days except on festival days where the Hanuman temple in the Muthathi region has great village festivities.



The other places around here are the Sangama, the confluence of River Cauvery and Arkavathi and Mekedatu. The Bhimeshwari fishing camp is close by too. The forest department has a camping site at Muthathi and requires prior booking. Trekking in the forest area can be a great experience.



To reach here, from Kanakapura one has to drive to Sathnur and at Sathnur take a left to reach Muthathi. It is advisable to carry plenty of water and food as there are no restaurants or shops.

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Kanva Dam



Not very far from the hustle bustle of the city of Bangalore is this serene place where there is a dam built in 1946 across the River Kanva, a tributary of the Cauvery. The dam is about 1.5 kms long. According to a legend the River gets its name from Sage Kanva who is believed to have lived in the region during the time of Ramayana. The water body is pretty large with fishermen fishing in their coracles. The water levels are good after the rains and the surface of the vast expanse of water is dazzling.



Coracle rides are available for a small amount. It is great fun to just splash around in the shallow regions of the water. The shores are wonderful for camping. It is a great place for bird watching on the green hills surrounding the water body. Trekking around the hills is worthwhile too. Just lazing on the shore and watching the clouds can be an amazing experience. A Picnic umbrella will come handy on sunny days.



It is near Ramanagaram, off Mysore road and about 65 kms from Bangalore. Enquiring with local villagers is very helpful and informative. There are no shops or restaurants close by, it is advisable to carry food and water and also ensure no trash is left behind.